PL EN


Preferencje help
Widoczny [Schowaj] Abstrakt
Liczba wyników
Czasopismo
2023 | nr 49 | 75--91
Tytuł artykułu

Second-hand clothing trade: achieving circular economy in the fashion sector through international cooperation

Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
This paper explores the global dynamics of second-hand clothing (SHC) in light of the circular economy to identify gaps and suggest pathways to reduce negative impacts on the sector. The analysis identifies current global patterns of SHC international trade and the main hotspots, in order to build a framework for action. The framework incorporates the main stakeholders and a set of actions aimed at reducing the environmental and social issues associated with the international trade of SHC. The analysis suggests that the framework may reduce risks and facilitate the transition to a just circular economy in the SHC sector. (original abstract)
Czasopismo
Rocznik
Numer
Strony
75--91
Opis fizyczny
Twórcy
  • UnitelmaSapienza University of Rome
  • Unitelma Sapienza University of Rome
Bibliografia
  • United Nations, The Sustainable Development Goals Report 2019, 2019. https://www.un.org/en/desa/sustainable-development-goals-report-2019
  • The World Bank, Urban Development, Solid Waste Management, World Bank Gr. (2013). http://www.worldbank.org/en/topic/urbandevelopment/brief/solid-waste-management.
  • Transforming our world: the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development, United Nations, New York, 2015.
  • S. Lorek, P.J. Vergragt, Sustainable consumption as a systemic challenge:Inter-and transdisciplinary research and research questions, Edward Elg, Cheltenham, 2015. https://doi.org/10.4337/9781783471270.00008.
  • K. Niinimäki, G. Peters, H. Dahlbo, P. Perry, T. Rissanen, A. Gwilt, The environmental price of fast fashion, "Nature Reviews Earth & Environment", 1 (2020) 189-200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9.
  • P. Senthil Kumar, K. Grace Pavithra, Water and Textiles, in: Water Text. Fash. Consum. Footprint, Life Cycle Assess., Elsevier, 2018: pp. 21-40. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102633-5.00002-6.
  • UN Environment, Mapping of Global Plastics Value Chain and Plastics Losses to the Environment: With a Particular Focus on Marine Environment, United Nations Environ. Program. (2018).
  • M.E. Bubicz, A.P.F. Dias Barbosa-Póvoa, A. Carvalho, Social sustainability management in the apparel supply chains, "Journal of Cleaner Production", 280 (2021) 124214. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.124214.
  • EEA/Eionet, Textiles and the environment in a circular economy. Retrieved 5 December 2020, Eur. Environ. Inf. Obs. Netw. (2019). https://www.eea.europa.eu/themes/waste/resource-efficiency/textiles-in-europe-s-circular-economy.
  • Directorate-General for Environment, EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, (2022). https://ec.europa.eu/environment/publications/textiles-strategy_en.
  • D. Iowe, A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion's future, Ellen MacArthur Found. (2017) 1-150. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy.
  • L.R. Camargo, S.C.F. Pereira, M.R.S. Scarpin, Fast and ultra-fast fashion supply chain management: an exploratory research, "International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management", 48 (2020) 537-553. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJRDM-04-2019-0133.
  • Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) & The Boston Consulting Group (BCG), Pulse of the fashion industry. globalfashionagenda.com, (2017).
  • J. Korhonen, A. Honkasalo, J. Seppälä, Circular Economy: The Concept and its Limitations, "Ecological Economics", 143 (2018) 37-46. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecolecon.2017.06.041.
  • M.C. den Hollander, C.A. Bakker, E.J. Hultink, Product Design in a Circular Economy: Development of a Typology of Key Concepts and Terms, "Journal of Industrial Ecology", 21 (2017) 517-525. https://doi.org/10.1111/jiec.12610.
  • E. MacArthur, Towards the Circular Economy: Vol. 1: Economic and business rationale for an accelerated transition, Ellen MacArthur Found. 1 (2014) 21-34.
  • J. Potting, M. Hekkert, E. Worrell, A. Hanemaaijer, Circular Economy: Measuring innovation in product chains|PBL Netherlands Environmental Assessment Agency, PBL Netherlands Assess. Agency, Hague. (2017). https://www.pbl.nl/en/publications/circular-economy-measuring-innovation-in-product-chains.
  • C.E.A. Plan, For a cleaner and more competitive Europe, Eur. Comm. Brussels, Belgium. (2020) 28.
  • European Commision, Proposal for a targeted revision of the Waste Framework Directive, (2023). https://data.europa.eu/doi/10.2760/858144.
  • Ellen Macarthur Foundation, Rethinking business models for a thriving fashion industry, Ellen Macarthur Found. (2021). https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/fashion-business-models/overview.
  • K. Niinimäki, Sustainable Fashion in a Circular Economy, Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture (2018) 128-228.
  • M.& Company, G.F. Agenda, Fashion on climate: How the fashion industry can urgently act to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions, McKinsey & Company and Global Fashion Agenda, 2020. https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our insights/fashion on climate/fashion-on-climate-full-report.pdf.
  • M.P. Mizrachi, A. Tal, Regulation for Promoting Sustainable, Fair and Circular Fashion, "Sustainability", 14 (2022) 502. https://doi.org/10.3390/su14010502.
  • United Nations Environment Programme, Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain, Global Stocktaking (2020) 19. https://www.oneplanetnetwork.org/sites/default/files/unep_sustainability_and_circularity_in_the_textile_value_chain.pdf.
  • G. Sandin, G.M. Peters, Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling -A review, "Journal of Cleaner Production", 184 (2018) 353-365. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266.
  • H.W. Chung Yeung, N.M. Coe, Toward a Dynamic Theory of Global Production Networks, "Economic Geography", 91 (2015) 29-58. https://doi.org/10.1111/ecge.12063.
  • E. Koberg, A. Longoni, A systematic review of sustainable supply chain management in global supply chains, "Journal of Cleaner Production", 207 (2019) 1084-1098. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.10.033.
  • R. Merli, M. Preziosi, A. Acampora, How do scholars approach the circular economy? A systematic literature review, "Journal of Cleaner Production", 178 (2018) 703-722. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.12.112.
  • F. Jia, S. Yin, L. Chen, X. Chen, The circular economy in the textile and apparel industry: A systematic literature review, "Journal of Cleaner Production", 259 (2020) 120728. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.120728.
  • F. Rossi, P. Morone, North-South Waste Trade: Prime Example of the Circular Economy or Major Environmental Threat?, "Circular Economy and Sustainability", (2023). https://doi.org/10.1007/s43615-023-00262-5.
  • B. Cotta, What goes around, comes around? Access and allocation problems in Global North-South waste trade, "International Environmental Agreements: Politics, Law and Economics", 20 (2020) 255-269. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10784-020-09479-3.
  • European Commision, Proposal for a targeted revision of the Waste Framework Directive, (2023). https://data.europa.eu/doi/10.2760/858144.
  • United Nations, UN Comtrade Database (28.06.2016), (2016). http://comtrade.un.org/data/.
  • J. Cameron, Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-Hand Clothes, "Australian Feminist Studies", 30 (2015) 316-320. https://doi.org/10.1080/08164649.2015.1107949.
  • WRAP, Valuing our clothes: The cost of UK fashion | WRAP, (2019) 4125764. https://wrap.org.uk/resources/report/valuing-our-clothes-cost-uk-fashion?_ga=2.86011480.1701529797.1581356684-697904570.1581241658.
  • L. Norris, The limits of ethicality in international markets: Imported second-hand clothing in India, "Geoforum", 67 (2015) 183-193. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2015.06.003.
  • P. Rivoli, The Travels of a T-shirt in the Global Economy, Second, Wiley, New Jersey, 2009. http://books.google.com/books?id=0bdUHkbEZqQC.
  • P. Morone, G. Yılan, A.G. Encino, Transition to a Circular, Sustainable, and Equitable Fashion Industry: The Case of Second-hand Clothing Trade in African Countries, "Africa e Mediterraneo", (2021).
  • K. Khurana, R. Tadesse, A study on relevance of second hand clothing retailing in Ethiopia, "Research Journal of Textile and Apparel", 23 (2019) 323-339. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-12-2018-0063.
  • Wrap, Wood Waste Market Situation Report, 2011. https://doi.org/https://wrap.org.uk/sites/default/files/2021-03/WRAP-textiles-market-situation-report-2019.pdf.
  • Brooks, Stretching global production networks: The international second-hand clothing trade, "Geoforum", 44 (2013) 10-22. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geoforum.2012.06.004.
  • O. Abimbola, The international trade in secondhand clothing: Managing information asymmetry between west African and British traders, "Textile Journal Cloth and Culture", 10 (2012) 184-199. https://doi.org/10.2752/175183512X13315695424310.
  • L.A. Manieson, T. Ferrero-Regis, Castoff from the West, pearls in Kantamanto? A critique of second-hand clothes trade, "Journal of Industrial Ecology", 27 (2023) 811-821. https://doi.org/10.1111/jiec.13238.
  • K. Hayakawa, H. Mukunoki, The impact of COVID-19 on international trade: Evidence from the first shock, "Journal of the Japanese and International Economies", 60 (2021) 101135. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jjie.2021.101135.
  • G. Miao, F. Fortanier, Estimating Transport and Insurance Costs of International Trade, (2017). https://doi.org/10.1787/8267bb0f-en.
  • M. Javorsek, Asymmetries in International Merchandise Trade Statistics: A case study of selected countries in Asia-Pacific, Statistics Division (2016).
  • Brooks, D. Simon, Unravelling the Relationships between Used-Clothing Imports and the Decline of African Clothing Industries, "Development and Change", 43 (2012) 1265-1290. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-7660.2012.01797.x.
  • The Observatory of Economic Complexity, Used Clothing, Net Trade, (2020). https://oec.world/en/profile/hs/used-clothing.
  • S. Calvo, G. Williams, Ropa usada: mercado nacional y regulación en Chile y extranjero., Bibl. Del Congr. Nac. Chile/ BCN. (2022).
  • S. Guo, T.M. Choi, J. Zhang, Second-Hand-Clothing Imports in Least-Developed-Countries: The Collapse of Local Clothing Manufacturing and Remedial Measures, in: IEEE Transactions on Engineering Management, 2023: pp. 1774-1793. https://doi.org/10.1109/TEM.2021.3061528.
  • OECD, Towards a More Resource-Efficient and CE -The Role of the G20, 2021. https://www.oecd.org/environment/waste/OECD-G20-Towards-a-more-Resource-Efficient-and-Circular-Economy.pdf.
  • L. Ricketts, B. Skinner, Stop Waste Colonialism: Leveraging Extended Producer Responsibility to Catalyze a Justice-led Circular Textiles Economy., Or Found. (2023).
  • Katende, E. Magezi, The Impact of Second Hand Clothes and Shoes in East Africa, WTO Fish. Subsid. Negot. Main Issues Interes. Least Dev. Ctries. (2017) 5-39. http://repository.eac.int/handle/11671/1848.
  • Priya, Impact of Second-Hand Clothing Waste in Ghana, Issue 2 Int'l, "International Journal of Law Management and Humanities", 5 (2022) 1679.
  • K.T. Hansen, Helping or hindering? Controversies around the international second-hand clothing trade, "Anthropol. Today", 20 (2004) 3-9. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0268-540x.2004.00280.x.
  • S. Haggblade, The Flip Side of Fashion: Used Clothing Exports to the Third World, "The Journal of Development Studies" 26 (1990) 505-521. https://doi.org/10.1080/00220389008422167.
  • G. Frazer, Used-clothing donations and apparel production in Africa, "Economic Journal", 118 (2008) 1764-1784. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-0297.2008.02190.x.
  • M.D. Vaverková, A. Maxianová, J. Winkler, D. Adamcová, A. Podlasek, Environmental consequences andthe role of illegal waste dumps and their impact on land degradation, "Land Use Policy", 89 (2019) 104234. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.landusepol.2019.104234.
  • S. Mair, A. Druckman, T. Jackson, Global inequities and emissions in Western European textiles and clothing consumption, "Journal of Cleaner Production", 132 (2016) 57-69. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.08.082.
  • World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO), Ten Principles of Fair Trade, (2020).
  • P. O'Reilly, T. Heron, Institutions, ideas and regional policy (un-)coordination: The East African Community and the politics of second-hand clothing, "Review of International Political Economy", 30 (2023) 608-631. https://doi.org/10.1080/09692290.2022.2062614.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.ekon-element-000171682224

Zgłoszenie zostało wysłane

Zgłoszenie zostało wysłane

Musisz być zalogowany aby pisać komentarze.
JavaScript jest wyłączony w Twojej przeglądarce internetowej. Włącz go, a następnie odśwież stronę, aby móc w pełni z niej korzystać.