Long-Chain Esters of Phenolic Acids as Multifuntional Components of Cosmetic Products

• Autorzy: Justyna Kiewlicz , Henryk Szymusiak

Warianty tytułu

Długołańcuchowe estry kwasów fenolowych jako wielofunkcyjne składniki produktów kosmetycznych

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

Phenolic acids are widely spread throughout the plant kingdom. Therefore, one vast area of interest for phenolic acids has been in food quality. Phenolic acids and their derivatives exhibit strong antioxidant activity against wide spectrum of reactive oxygen species. This property can be used to inhibit the oxidation processes that have place in cosmetic emulsions containing unsaturated fatty acids. Moreover, phenolic acids and their alkyl esters have anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial properties. In the structure of long-chain phenolic acids esters both the hydrophilic and the hydrophobic regions can by distinguished what suggests possible surface activity of these compounds. In this study we present the first results of our study on long-chain ferulic acid esters as novel components for cosmetic industry. Its derivatives with the tetradecyl, hexadecyl and octadecyl chains were synthesised and their structure was confirmed by IR spectroscopy. The HLB values, calculated according to the IOB system, suggest that newly synthesised long-chain ferulic acid esters could be used as multifunctional ingredients in cosmetic formulations: with antioxidant, anti-foaming and W/O emulgating functions. (original abstract)

Kwasy fenolowe są związkami szeroko rozpowszechnionymi w świecie roślinnym, co powoduje, że cieszą się one szczególnym zainteresowaniem w kontekście kształtowania jakości żywności. Zarówno kwasy fenolowe, jak i ich pochodne wykazują silną aktywność przeciwutleniającą, polegającą na dezaktywacji reaktywnych form tlenu. Właściwości te mogą być wykorzystywane do hamowania procesów oksydacyjnych występujących w emulsjach zawierających nienasycone kwasy tłuszczowe. Ponadto kwasy fenolowe i ich alkilowe estry wykazują działanie przeciwalergiczne, przeciwzapalne i przeciwdrobnoustrojowe. Budowa cząsteczkowa długołańcuchowych estrów kwasów fenolowych, charakteryzująca się występowaniem dwóch wyraźnych części: hydrofilowej i hydrofobowej, wskazuje na występowanie właściwości powierzchniowo czynnych tych związków. W artykule prezentujemy wstępne wyniki badań dotyczących długołańcuchowych estrów kwasów fenolowych, które mogą znaleźć zastosowania jako nowe składniki wyrobów kosmetycznych. Wykonano syntezę tetradecylowych, heksadecylowych oraz oktadecylowych pochodnych kwasu ferulowego, a następnie potwierdzono ich strukturę na podstawie analizy widm w podczerwieni. Wartości HLBG wyznaczone na podstawie systemu IOB sugerują, że otrzymane długołańcuchowe estry kwasu ferulowego mogą być wykorzystywane w recepturach kosmetycznych jako składniki pełniące również funkcje środków przeciwpieniących oraz emulgatorów typu W/O. (abstrakt oryginalny)

Słowa kluczowe

EN

Emulsions; Cosmetics; Production of cosmetics; Cosmetic industry; Cosmetics market; Industrial commodities; Commodity research

PL

Emulsje; Kosmetyki; Produkcja kosmetyków; Przemysł kosmetyczny; Rynek kosmetyków; Towaroznawstwo przemysłowe; Badania towaroznawcze

• Czasopismo: Zeszyty Naukowe / Uniwersytet Ekonomiczny w Poznaniu
• Rocznik: 2011
• Numer: nr 217
• Strony: 119--132

Twórcy

autor

Justyna Kiewlicz

• Poznań University of Economics, Poland

autor

Henryk Szymusiak

• Poznań University of Economics, Poland

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